Metal billets are easier to stick in your pocket and use when sourcing materials, last much longer than natural antler billets, and won't be chewed up by any but the meanest dogs.
An antler billet, being much softer than stone, microscopically wraps around the edge of the preform when used. Slight strike angle varaitions are therefore not so important, and they offer a cushioned shock to the stone.
Metal billets are not nearly as gentle. They transfer shock more readily, and strike a smaller area.
Grind the edge as when using antler.
The diagram above shows proper strike angle for a beveling or nibbling strike used to set up a striking platform or change preform outline.
The diagram below shows the angles necessary for striking a thinning flake that runs across the surface of the preform, as well as the difference in strike angles necessary in using metal billets as opposed to antler billets.
To use metal billets, remember the following:
Strike angle with a metal billet is more straight down than with antler. Strike the edge of the preform at nearly right angles to the core centerplane. For aluminum, use just the tip to strike.
Push the billet in a straight path, taking care not to make an arching strike.
Metal billets seem to work best when the core is elevated above the pad so billet travel continues past the preform edge. Hold preform just inside the knee with wrist resting on the pad.
If your flakes are not traveling far enough across the preform face, adjust the angle you hold the preform VERY slightly up on the striking edge.
If your flakes are stepping, angle the edge of the preform VERY slightly down, so that the force of the blow is not directed so much into the preform center.
It may take a while to get used to metal billet strike angles. Keep your posture and strike consistent and you will get consistent flake removal.
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